The European haircare market is recovering from the pandemic. Euromonitor International projects that hair care will be worth $21 billion by 2022. This is a significant beauty category in Europe. The sector’s key driver is Skinification, which is driven by a growing trend for companies to be more sustainable.
Euromonitor International reports that Germany ($4.1 billion), France ($2.3 billion), Russia ($1.86 billion), Russia (1.83 billion), and Italy ($1.4 billion are the top hair care markets in Europe. Shampoo ($7.3 billion; +5.4%), home hair colorants ($4.0 trillion, +3.7%), and conditioners and treatments ($3.3 billion,+5.5%) are at the top of the shopping list.
Euromonitor projects that salon professional product sales will increase 7.3% to over $2.1 billion this year. Salon brands gained popularity from customers searching for ways to recreate the salon experience at home during the pandemic. At the time, Scottish hairdresser-to-the-stars Sam McKnight reflected long and hard over how best to develop his Hair by Sam McKnight range. McKnight decided that the formulas had been established before the pandemic. The packaging was also replaced with vegan alternatives.
Based on McKnight’s regular use of certain products on his clients, the result is a reduced range. Hair by Sam McKnight contains Deeper Love, a conditioning masque with the strengthening molecule Rep’Hair and restorative Crabond. It is aimed at customers with color-treated hair, which makes up more than 90% McKnight’s clients. Happy Endings nourishing cream, which contains shine-enhancing microcapsules called “vegabead”, claims to nourish and style hair.
Gray Hair Trend
Another trend that was triggered by the pandemic was the acceptance of naturally graying hair rather than attempting to transition from professionally colored hair to natural gray. Consumers had to reprioritize purchases due to financial constraints. According to Euromonitor’s Kayla Villena, many people decided that a box of colorant wasn’t necessary.
Villena said that some people did not go back to regular dyeing after restrictions were lifted. “Normalization continued of gray and curly styles in 2021 with Jodie Foster and Andie McDowell debuting natural gray hairs on the Cannes red carpet.” Pantene’s “Grey & Glowing”, a range that caters to graying hair, was one of the first. She added that “innovation in targeted products is slow” and that there are still opportunities for brands to be innovative in this space.
Sustainability Moves up
L’Oreal is a leader when it comes to environmentally sustainable hair care. Euromonitor reports that L’Oreal is currently testing recycled captured carbon plastic packaging. The world’s largest cosmetics company will use it in its shampoos and conditioners by 2024 if it is successful. Villena states that the company is also working with packaging partners to create recyclable paper bottles and tubes.
L’Oreal’s Pureology has been reformulated to be vegan in 2020. Refill packs and solid formats are becoming more popular among European haircare brands. GlobalData mentions Schwarzkopf’s Solid Shampoo (Spain) which comes in a paperboard case and is equivalent to a 330ml shampoo bottle. This solid format is also suitable for multi-use such as L’Oreal Men Expert Barber Club Shampoo and Wash Bar for hair and face, body, and beard. Johnson’s Baby Shampoo Eco Refill Pack (UK) is the brand’s first refill pack.
A focus on skinification
Consumers increasingly see their hair and scalp as extensions of the skin. This is why innovative formulae and formats are being used in hair care.
GlobalData plc’s Lia Neophytou explains that the hair and scalp are central areas of an individual’s appearance. She points out L’Oreal Paris Elvive Hydra Hyaluronic Serum, which contains a “2% care compound with hyaluronic acids.”
She stated that “Its inclusion into a hair product could generate curiosity about the product’s efficacy, and benefits for hair.” Tarte’s Hair Concealer is another unusual variant. The product is described as a full coverage cream-to powder hair concealer. It can be used to contour the hairline, fill in small gaps and touch up roots.
Neophytou stated that the product is a replica of a traditional makeup concealer in both its function and format. This appeals to those looking for simple, effective haircare solutions.
Villena noted a greater demand for hair that is healthy, especially in the areas of scalp health, skin-influenced ingredients and bond-building.
She noted that “skinification” is a term used in hair care to describe the use of skin-care-like ingredients and formulations. The scalp acts as an extension of facial skin care. These value-driven trends are not only being seen in Western Europe but also in North America, Asia Pacific and North America.
Villena says that Philip Kingsley, a British brand, is the leader in scalp expertise. He has been a clinical expert in trichology for many decades. Gallinee and Venn, both skin care brands, are launching probiotic hair products that draw on their knowledge about the skin’s microbiome.
She points out that maintaining the microbiome of your hair and scalp can help with irritations and fragile hair. Both brands are doing great work in educating consumers about these benefits.
Villena sees little growth in Western Europe in 2023 and beyond. However, Villena believes that there will be a slight increase in shampoos and conditioners in the future. This will be offset by a decrease in styling agents. Colorants are expected to grow strongly in Eastern Europe.
“There will be growth…specifically through premiumization, expansion and demographic targeting,” she predicted. Particularly, Western Europe is expected to see a rise in salon products that have a trusted position.